Seasonal changes, farm visits, a quieter essay now and then. Written by the kitchen and the house, published when we have something to say and not before.
Our buyer at Tsukiji has been there since before most of our cooks were born. A morning with her teaches us why the same fish is never the same fish.
Ayaka Noda · 8 min
Why we built a full tea and zero-proof program alongside the wine list — and what to order when you want the flavor, not the effect.
Mateo Ruiz · 6 min
Every plate on the house came from one studio in Shigaraki. A photo essay from a three-day visit last autumn.
Seren Okafor · 12 min
Why we burn oak-charcoal from Wakayama instead of the oak-from-anywhere that most robata kitchens settle for — and the hour it takes to get the bed right.
Ayaka Noda · 5 min
Our Hudson Valley farm grows specifically for us. A February visit — what's sleeping, what's been planned for spring, what we'll cook in April.
Chef Matsuda · 9 min
On the things that don't belong on a printed menu — the eye contact, the pace of the pour, the pause before dessert.
Chef Matsuda · 4 min
A technical note on why we keep two batches of shari at two temperatures through service — and why the second one is always better.
Chef Matsuda · 7 min
The hiyaoroshi we've added to the list, and three pairings we're running through November.
Mateo Ruiz · 5 min
Ichiro Takada on the rule he keeps for every dessert that leaves the kitchen.
Ichiro Takada · 3 min
A few essays and a seasonal update, delivered to your inbox quietly and infrequently. No announcements, no cross-promotions.
